Head for the hills and the spectacular Castell de Guadalest

There can’t be many villages where the entrance is a tunnel cut through solid rock. But Guadalest is perched on a limestone crag high above the Costa Blanca and that really is the only way in.

What an entrance! The tunnel through solid rock is on the left, overlooked by the iconic white belltower

Like most of the mountain villages in this part of the world, El Castell de Guadalest was fortified by the Moors, who knew a good defensive position when they saw one. Essentially, the village clings to a massive rocky outcrop that absolutely dominates the river valley. So the Moors built their Castillo de la Alcozaiba right at the top in the 11th century and you can still climb up to its ruined peak today – though the Christians renamed it Castell de Sant Josep.

The rocky limestone ridge that protected Guadalest in medieval times

The castle never really recovered from a massive earthquake that hit this part of the world in 1644, devastating the village and knocking down most of the fortifications. Things didn’t get any better in the following century when a mine was exploded under the castle walls during the War of the Spanish Succession. Things have quietened down a bit since though.

To get into the historic village, you walk up through the Portal de Sant Josep – that’s the tunnel cut through the rock – with Guadalest’s iconic white-painted belltower perched dizzily above it. 

The only way in – through the rocky Portal de Sant Josep

Walk up the cobbled main street (in the old town, it’s only street!) to the little square and take in the spectacular views across to the Sierra de Serrella on the other side of the valley and down to the reservoir hundreds of metres below.

The cobbled Plaza San Gregorio, the main square. It gets a bit more crowded in summer!

Looking down from the square to the reservoir far below with the Sierra de Serella beyond.

To get up to the top of the castle – where everyone wants to go for the best views – you need to head first to the Casa Orduña, right next to the village entrance. It’s €4 to get in, but there’s a pleasant amble through the mansion of the lords of Guadalest, the Orduña family, furnished in 19th century style.

Inside the Orduña family home, furnished in 19th century style.
A metal staircase takes you on a one-way system up to the castle

Then you come out of the side of the building and up the metal staircase to the top of the rocky ridge a few metres from that iconic belltower. The views from here down to the sea are terrific.

The white-painted belltower on its limestone ridge.

The rooftops of Guadalest from the castle with the reservoir beyond.

Then you join the calvario – a cobbled path marked by blue and white-painted shrines which mark the stations of the cross – and up to the ruins of the castle itself.

The blue and white shrines of the calvario up to the castle.

Again, the views over the Guadalest valley are quite something. Even the doziest medieval soldier on guard duty would have seen an enemy coming from a very, very long way off.

The spectacular view up the Guadalest valley from the castle

For some unexplained reason, they like really small stuff in Guadalest. On your way back to the car, check out the Microgigantic Museum where you can marvel at a bullring constructed on the head of a pin…and my personal favourite, a flea wearing clothes and riding a bicycle. There’s also (deep breath!) a dolls house museum, a salt and pepper shaker museum, a historic vehicles museum, a medieval history museum specialising in instruments of torture and an ethnography museum. At least there’s something to see if it rains!

If you don’t fancy the museums, then stop off and buy some local honey at the stall opposite the micromuseum. It’s really good.

Looking up the sheer rock face to the remains of the castle from car park level

Stock up with local honey here! The bees make their honey from the herbs that grow wild in the Guadalest valley, which gives each one a different flavour.

Before you leave Guadalest, take the short drive down to the dam below the village, the one you saw from the main square. The lake provides water for the thirsty tourist towns along the coast, and the views up to Guadalest on its rocky perch high above are worth the detour.

If you fancy a longer drive with more dramatic mountain scenery, continue up the Guadalest valley through Confrides to Benasau.

Head up the Guadalest valley towards Confrides and look back to see the castle on its rocky perch

Then follow the dramatic winding climb up to the 1,000 metre high Puerto de Tudons pass, a favourite with hard-core cyclists, the kind of people who think nothing of a quick 50km before lunch.

Stunning views from the 1,025 metre high Puerto de Tudons

Pull over at the top for some impressive views and enjoy the silence of the mountains – then follow the Amadorio valley back down to the coast through Sella and Orxeta, finishing up at our town Villajoyosa/La Vila Joiosa.

Puig Campana mountain in the evening sun – the road down from Port de Tudons to La Vila Joioisa.

Check out more beautiful Spanish pueblos here: Albarracín near Teruel and the amazing Moorish caves of Bocairent near Alcoy.

© Guy Pelham

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