Water is a scarce commodity on the Costa Blanca, especially after two years of drought. So it’s a real surprise to discover huge freshwater lagoons lying just inland from the coast, between Elche and the resort/fishing port of Santa Pola.
The lagoons are a haven for birdlife and they’ve been transformed into a parque natural – 172 species have been counted here, of which around 50 are there year-round.
We saw flamingos, ibis, herons, stilts, coots, moorhens, wagtails and more ducks than we could count.
In spring and autumn, El Hondo is an oasis, a place to rest and feed for thousands of migrating birds heading to and from Africa.
Egrets, ospreys, cranes, grebes, avocets and plenty more species are all visitors too. It’s a wetland of international importance. Two ducks – the marbled teal and the white-headed duck – are endangered species (though sadly, we haven’t managed to see either just yet)
El Hondo is also a great place to see raptors. We’ve seen an osprey and several marsh harriers, swooping low over the reed beds in search of prey.
The most famous visitor to El Hondo was a Greater Spotted Eagle from Estonia, one of the rarest birds in Europe. Scientists tracking him via a GPS tag nicknamed him Tonn, and he wintered at El Hondo for several years. He was tagged as a chick in 2008, and was seen at El Hondo as recently as 2020.
Fascinating fact!
There are plenty of flamingos here too. But what do you call a gathering of flamingos – a flock? A herd?
No…apparently it’s a flamboyance of flamingos. I think it rather suits them. They are one of nature’s show-offs!
Why are the lagoons there?
The lakes are reservoirs created in the 1920s, mostly for irrigation, and you can see the network of sluices and water channels among the banks of rushes as you walk around.
Back in the Middle Ages, the area was part of a much bigger wetland, La Albufera de Elche, fed by the waters of the Rio Vinalopó. But that was almost completely drained by the 18th century, mostly to create more farmland (though getting rid of the disease-carrying mosquitos that bred in the marshes was a real bonus too).
The reservoirs we see today are big – they cover more than 1100 hectares (2700 acres) and the whole wetland measures more than 7km across.
It became a nature reserve back in 1988 and there’s a network of trails across the landscape that take you to a series of hides and observation points from where you can watch the wildlife.
The water from the lagoons is still used for agriculture – the area around Elche grows some of the best pomegranates in Spain, and the trees are irrigated by water from El Hondo.
Trails to follow:
There are four trails around El Hondo:
- Yellow – the shortest and most accessible (good for buggies, wheelchairs and little kids) at just under 1km. Includes a boardwalk across one of the smaller lagoons.
- Green – 3.75 km, takes in more hides
- Blue – 16 km, so best done on a bike or e-bike.
- Red – 5 km and a cool walk aimed at birdwatchers. This starts from a different entrance, the Puerta del Norte, on Saturday mornings only. You have to book in advance with the park information centre for this; 96 667 85 15 or email parque_elhondo@gva.es. If you’re into birdwatching, it’s well worth it.
We did a mixture of yellow and green, taking in four hides. And we’ve also done the red trail, where visits are for small groups only. You can wander from hide to hide for three hours. The only downside is you have to be there at 0830 on a Saturday! Take a look at the trails below:
How to get to El Hondo
El Hondo wetland is a 25-minute drive from Elche or about 40 mins from Alicante city.
There’s plenty of car parking next to the visitor centre (Centro de Interpretación), picnic tables and plenty of signage and maps around so you don’t get lost. Admission is free.
TIP – bring binoculars!
If you’re flying into Alicante airport over land, you can spot the lagoons off to your right just to the south of your flight path. The other way round on take-off! That’s how we first saw them.
Finally, take a look at this beautifully shot YouTube video – it’ll give you a flavour of the bird life you might see at El Hondo if your luck is in!
More cool places to visit near El Hondo:
- The spectacular Elche dam on the Vinalopó river
- Discover the medieval castles of the Vinalopó valley
- Great clifftop views (and maybe a free airshow) at the Cabo de Santa Pola
- Exploring Tabarca – Alicante’s island
© Guy Pelham