Duration: 45 mins each way. Easy, mostly paved or dirt tracks, some steep steps and uneven paths.
This stroll is a nice mix of cliff top walking, beautiful sea views and a little history. Start on the seafront by the red lighthouse at the port entrance; this corner of the beach is known as the Basseta de L’Oli (rough translation, the Oil Pool). Fear not, there’s no pollution; it got the name because the sea is always calmest here in the shelter of the port.
The sand itself is a relatively recent import; the beach was just pebbles until not much more than 20 years ago. Before Villajoyosa’s modern port was built in the 1920s, the fishing boats were hauled up onto the shingle and bigger ships had to anchor offshore in the bay.
Head past the marina to the ship repair yard at the end of the port, all that is left of a once-thriving shipbuilding industry. Difficult to believe now, but in the nineteenth century, La Vila Joioisa (as Villajoyosa is known in Valenciano) was the second most important shipyard in the whole of Spain.
Turn right at the end of the port, walk to the sea past the modern duplex apartments and you come to Playa Varadero (literally Shipyard Beach).
They built all sorts here; trading schooners, fishing boats and pilot boats. All that’s left of that heritage is a rather forlorn and rusty winch on the beach, once used for hauling boats out of the water.
The beach itself is still shingle; no fancy imported sand here. It’s a great place to go snorkeling around the rocks. It’s more chilled and less crowded than La Vila’s main beach. It does also boast a beach bar.
TIP: take beach shoes to deal with the pebbles, otherwise it’s an ungainly hobble to the water’s edge.
There’s then a well-paved road by the sea for the next few hundred metres, taking you past the little coves of Playa Estudiantes and Playa Tio Roig.
A bar (Tamarindos), designed to look as if was built from shipping containers, has recently opened just behind the beach. Back in the day, it was a cool hippy-style place where La Vila’s youngsters came in the 70s and 80s to enjoy the relaxation of the rules after Franco’s death.
The path then runs out and you have to climb a steep staircase (84 steps, I counted) to the clifftop.
Turn right at the top along a path which takes you around the edge of an olive grove behind a villa. Turn right across the villa access road and there’s then a brief scramble which takes you up onto the cliff path towards the six towers of Torres.
Built with all the sensitivity and skill of a toddler with its first box of Lego, they’re an ugly hangover from the ‘build ’em high, sell ’em quick’ era of Spanish tourist development. Plonking six enormous apartment blocks on an otherwise empty clifftop doesn’t win any prizes for sensitive town planning.
Keep your eyes on the beautiful clifftop view out to sea instead; you’ll notice the giant nets of the fish farm where they breed sea bass (lubina).
Occasionally one of the nets breaks in bad weather; all the fishermen then head for the beach for a free fishy bonanza. A net broke away from the fish farm off Albir in the storms of January 2020, and we saw local anglers pulling bucketfuls of lubina out of the sea from La Vila’s beach for a couple of days afterwards!
You can’t miss the Islote (little island) de Benidorm out in the bay. It’s uninhabited and a nature reserve, but you can take a 20 minute trip out to visit from Benidorm – see my post here.
Some boats have underwater viewing panels for a close up view of the flourishing marine wildlife. See my blog for a few local myths and legends on how the island was born.
A couple of minutes stroll and the tower blocks are mercifully behind you; a winding path with easy steps then takes you down to Playa de Torres itself. Pause briefly to feel seriously jealous of the people who own the clifftop house; they must have one of the best sea views on the entire Costa Blanca. Inland, you’ll see the Puig Campana mountain dominating the skyline.
Playa de Torres itself is a pleasant sand and shingle beach. Head towards the far end if you want to escape the muzak from the nearby caravan site (the site bar is great for a refreshing drink or ice cream though).
The Romans were here!
Walk a few yards inland behind the beach to see the remarkable Torre de Sant Josep; it’s a Roman funeral tower, one of only three in the whole of Spain.
Built for a seriously important Roman citizen from Allon (the Roman name for La Vila), it has just been restored to more or less the way archaeologists think it might have looked in the second century AD (see my blog on the Romans in La Vila here)
That’s the end of the walk; head back the same way to La Vila, or if you’re feeling energetic, continue past Playa de Torres along the cliffs to Torre d’Aguiló, Cala de Finestrat and Benidorm. The walk to Torre d’Aguiló takes a further hour; see my blog here
Try these other walks around Villajoyosa:
- Villajoyosa harbour to Malladeta
- Malladeta to Xarco watchtower: the five beach walk
- Exploring the old town of Villajoyosa
- La Ermita and the Amadorio dam
- The Faro de L’Albir walk
- Torre del Barranc d’Aigües watchtower
- Torre de Les Caletes – Benidorm’s green walk
© Guy Pelham